VenusParticipantApril 2, 2016 at 7:25 amPost count: 133
Something we’ve learned, and a hard lesson it was; nitrates must be reduced gradually or the injury will be even greater. I would guess you did a large water change too quickly. This is common. We see a problem and perform a large water change. Another thing that can happen after a large water change; a spike in the cycle. When you remove a great amount of water, you’re also removing the food source for beneficial bacteria
If you have testers, test for ammonia and nitrite for a good week. If not, pick up a master test kit or take a sample of tank water to the pet shop
Is your fish curling? If not, the injury isn’t too severe
Goldfish that have suffered nitrates poisoning need deep water. Deep water reduces the pressure caused by nitrates. This is the reason we see them pressed to the bottom
How tall is your fish house?
What is the water temperature in your fish house? Colder water is the key. Goldfish are cold blooded, and use less oxygen in cold water. All too often our fish houses are low in oxygen. To reduce water temps, fill a pitcher with tank water and chill in the fridge; pour all around slowly; refill and repeat. You can’t get the water too cold. The beneficial bacteria that create the nitrogen cycle, producing nitrates will also slow, and will not be injured
Reduce temps to 55 to 60f
Do you know your KH and pH levels? If so, please post. If not, please obtain asap
Is your fish house covered? If so, remove the entire top so the surface is exposed to fresh air. Make sure the room is filled with fresh moving air. Set up a fan so that it blows over the surface
If your set up doesn’t include a real pond pump, to make sure that Co2 (gas created from waste) isn’t present in your fish house water, keeping oxygen from entering, using a pitcher, push it deep into the tank water filling it; pour it back in the tank, and repeat. Perform this action for 10 minutes four to five times daily
Nitrates rob the blood of oxygen, so if your fish is to recover, it’s necessary to get your fish house water oxygenated
Do you have just the one fish? If not, the other won’t mind being in a semi dormant state for a while. We want to keep the water cold until we know for certain the oxygen levels are at their best, but during this state, the body functions will slow. Continue feeding, but sparingly. This could also help avoid a spike in the cycle
ronnieMemberApril 2, 2016 at 8:42 amPost count: 4
All ammonia and ph are perfect.
I just didn’t know about nitrate/nitrite poisoning..
Temp is 25degrees
Depth of tub roughly 15 inches high
Holds roughly atm 120 litres.
Have 2 air pumps going for oxygen.
I can lower the water level or make it deeper tomorrow when I get to then ew house. We are in middle of moving .
VenusParticipantApril 2, 2016 at 9:30 amPost count: 133
Perfect? What are the readings for pH and KH. This will help me determine your oxygen levels
I’m not sure when you performed the water change, but it may take a day or two for ammonia or nitrite to show, so keep watching just to be on the safe side
Air pumps don’t oxygenate water, so this in itself tells me you have oxygen issues. In order for water to be oxygenated, it must first be clear of gases created by waste (hence the pitcher method of removing gases) the surface must be exposed to fresh air, and the KH (carbonate mineral) level must be healthy. KH gives water the ability to support oxygen
Air pumps are pretty to look at, and that’s the only thing they’re good for
Deep water is the key. Fill the tank as high as possible. We need to discuss the idea of you getting a pond pump set up in your tank as soon as you can
It’s not easy moving with fish, but hang in there
ronnieMemberApril 2, 2016 at 5:12 pmPost count: 4
I’m sorry I I’ve lostm my ph cardb it knowi it’s reading mid blue.I alwayst thoughta air stonesp placed air in the water. WOW have I got alot to learn..
Will dot he jug waterm movement as soon asi I get to the house.
Thankyou so much for your help
VenusParticipantApril 2, 2016 at 8:00 pmPost count: 133
Ah…Queensland. Isn’t that where the dingos dwell?
Unfortunately your water department is listing total hardness, instead of breaking it down. Total hardness is a measurement of general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) combined. We need them listed separated, but I could tell that the total hardness is lower than what it should be. My guess is, your KH is healthy and the GH is low due to your location, but we’ll still need actual test results to know what’s going on. Your fish are only as healthy as the water they live in. As you’re learning, there’s more to healthy water than the toxins created by the cycle, but give yourself a pat on the back for knowing about the cycle
Until we know more about your water, perform the pitcher method for removing gases a few times a day, and oh, be sure to work the freshwater over before adding to your tank as you’re setting up in the new place. Freshwater is filled with supersaturated gases. These gases which are actually concentrated amounts of oxygen are caused by pressure, and can cause oxygen deprivation, symptoms similar to nitrate poisoning. We don’t want that. Just pour the water from pitcher to bucket, letting it hit really hard. You can test for SSG by filling a glass with tap water; let it sit for an hour or so. Do you see tiny bubbles on the sides of the glass? If so, keep working the water over
The pond pumps we recommend help eliminate these gases as well as gases created from waste
When you get moved and settled in, learn more about goldfish by reading the 10 steps. You can read the short version here https://www.goldfish-emergency.com/10-easy-steps-to-goldfish-keeping/
The long version here
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