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  • So, after talking with Farbod he noticed a few things that may be helpful.
    When we first started treating Fortune in April he felt bark like scales during the salt baths. When moving and during treatment for the egg impaction he said that it felt as if it had healed a bit. During treatment in the Nitrate chamber, he said the bark like scales were…[Read more]

    • If the fish is eating, the problem is non related to nitrates, even though it’s hard to believe considering the position. It’s possible the fish was injured, but how? I’ve never known a pond pump to injure a fish. If it were an injury, it would have to be caused by a filtering system

      The only other thing that causes this curled position is SSg, and we know that’s not an issue. Did you use chlorophyll in the chamber? No matter; it’s just not nitrate poisoning if the fish is eating. Are you quite certain?

      So sad to see the other fish under it. They’re bonded, and the other fish is offering support

      I printed out the photo, and traced it. If you noticed, there’s a sharp angle on the top side of the fish; it shouldn’t be there. With nitrates, the bend is smooth, a soft curl. This could be the result of injury, but how? Doesn’t make sense

      If the fish is eating, it’s got a chance of surviving. Just keep the water right, and cross fingers. If you notice it’s stopped eating for more than a few days, we consider euthanization. If we go that direction, it’s important to get another fish for the one

      Sorry to hear this. We’ve been through a lot with this fellow. It was doing so well too

      • So, after talking with Farbod he noticed a few things that may be helpful.
        When we first started treating Fortune in April he felt bark like scales during the salt baths. When moving and during treatment for the egg impaction he said that it felt as if it had healed a bit. During treatment in the Nitrate chamber, he said the bark like scales were back on both sides now. With some black bruising. Which I have noticed as the fish moves around. Circular and black.

    • When fish raise their scales, it does feel bark like, because scales are hard. When they lay down, you feel the slime coat. I’m sure the water temps were fine in the chamber, and have been fine in the fish house as well, so in this case the fish has fever; meaning infection of some kind; not good

      As for the circular black marks; never seen this before

      Reduce the water temps to 64f for a while. If the fish has a fever this will help reduce temps. Let’s try a mint treatment; one cup of mint tea per 10 gallons of water. Make sure the parameters are on the mark as you have been doing

      I would love to have a close up shot of the circular and black marks, but not at the fish’s expense. It’s not going to help me determine a diagnosis anyway, and the fact is, there are some things we can’t fix. The only thing that will give some hope; dying fish do not eat, so it’s possible the condition will improve

      I know it’s painful to watch after everything the fish has been through. I tell people, it’s time to say goodbye to the fish when it’s too much for the fish keeper to bare, so if you can take it, so can the fish

    • Do you see any signs of oxygen deprivation? Are the gills and mouth overworking? Are the gills turning pink or red on the exterior?

      What if the fish is suffering from nitrate issues, and just happens to be the only fish I’ve ever seen with an appetite? The fact is, it was poisoned by nitrites and then nitrates in the past, and maybe more than once. Maybe it needs more than the chamber, or maybe it needed more time in the chamber

      It might be worth a try; the gill flush. The gill flush oxygenates the blood stream. Have a syringe with no needle ready. Here how it works; you scoop the fish up in a one gallon container. You add one tablespoon of H202 to a glass of tank water; have it ready. Add it to the water; pouring all around slowly, mixing with your hand as you do so. Fill the syringe with bath water treated with H202. Lift the fish’s head above the surface, and it should gasp, giving you a chance to administer. Place the syringe inside of the mouth, pointed at one gill, and squeeze the solution out. Repeat the process treating the other gill

      Repeat once a day

      Fish that have suffered nitrate poisoning are experience oxygen loss in the blood stream. This treatment replaces that loss safely. No matter whether nitrates are the issue or not, the treatment sure can’t hurt. Making sure the blood is heavily oxygenated could help the fish recover

  • Nitrate chamber treatment:
    Hello,
    We have the tallest container we could find after checking several stores. Could you please give us detailed step by step instructions, including whether we should be using the tank water since both fish are going in. Also, now that are tank is happy with algae won’t removing the fish disrupt and potentially ruin…[Read more]

  • Hello,

    Our fish was successfully moved on 6/30. We bought large trashcans with lids and saved 40% of the water. We treated the tank alternating between treatments up to the move. Aloe, Mean Green, Oop Therapy and Health Tonic. When taking the fish out we immediately put her into a bucket of tank water treated with Hydrogen Periodide and Epsom…[Read more]

    • Hi Jennifer, that is one sensitive fish, meaning it hasn’t fully recovered. Your parameters look fantastic, and believe it or not, that in itself is helpful

      Consider changing the way you change water; instead of removing 5% and then replacing, like you would with normal fish; replace one pitcher at a time. Scoop a pitcherful out of the tank; pour in a bucket, replace with freshwater. This means exchanging twice as much water to reduce nitrates, but it looks like they’re under control

      We’ve got a buy two get one free on remedies; suggest mean green. I’ve switched from wheat grass chlorophyll to dandelion. Dandelion is a blood cleanser on top of numerous benefits

      I think the best way to move this guy is to get him really cold; like 45 degrees. A small ice chest to keep the water cold should do the trick. This way the blood flow will be very limited, so it won’t feel the increased pressure.

      Do the mean green treatment before the move, but save a jug for after you get him moved. If he warms up to the green water, it might make the difference. I’ll slip some white tea into one marked bottle as the wake up treatment.

      Test you new tap, even though a nearby move shouldn’t make much of a difference

      As to the evaporation; yes, I expect nitrates are going to build up because they don’t evaporate. Ever heard of R.O. water? They collect steam from heated water. The steam water is free of everything, with minerals and toxins left behind. I just recently wrote this article on the topic of evaporation. KH levels build up and up, and before you know the fish are poisoned. Just recently had a close call. Thought of you, but realized you were testing regularly. People like me with average levels think they’re safe.

      tof Products

      https://goldfish-emergency.com/aquarium-pond-water-evaporation/

    • Okay, we’re not selling mean green two for one, but if you decide to purchase, I’ll slip a third bottle in

    • Hello,

      Our fish was successfully moved on 6/30. We bought large trashcans with lids and saved 40% of the water. We treated the tank alternating between treatments up to the move. Aloe, Mean Green, Oop Therapy and Health Tonic. When taking the fish out we immediately put her into a bucket of tank water treated with Hydrogen Periodide and Epsom Salt for about 5-7 minutes while we got her moving container, ( a styrofoam ice chest with a garbage bag in it) ready with the water temperature at 45%. We achieved this using temperature using ice. Once Fortune was in the ice chest we bathed her tank mate, Fate in the treatment water and put him into the ice chest as well. We then finished taking down the tank and with an air-conditioned truck moved her to our new house, where we set up the tank as quickly as possible. We added the old water and 10% new water with some salt and hydrogen peroxide and set up the air pumps. We then added the fish back to their home. Success. I noticed in the next couple of days Fortune, however, had developed impacted eggs.

      During the move, because it was summer and the temperature had risen a few degrees for a month or so Fortune had developed eggs. After the move and the decrease in temperature, she began to show signs of impacted eggs. She was swimming head down at a 45-degree angle. She however still had her appetite. After some emailed advice we held Fortune’s vent over the water pump’s pressure. This immediately seemed to relieve the problem. We followed this with increasing the temperature to 68-70 degrees. I also have started a week’s treatment of Melafix, because of the risk of infection as well as a small abrasion I noticed on her fin caused by the move.

      She is no longer at a 45-degree angle and seems to have responded well. But once again she is in a curled bent position. I believe this time it was brought on by me adding water in a little bit too fast. I will have to follow your advice on the pitcherful method. She seems to be doing as well as possible. A sensitive but tough fish!

    • She really is super sensitive, but when we say this, what we mean is; the fish hasn’t fully recovered. She needs a few treatments of mean green, but more important, check the new tap water parameters. You may have to buffer KH and GH

      Test for nitrates in tap too; it happens

      Goal for KH is 120 to 140 ppm, and remember to keep the water deep as possible and cold

  • The trip information is helpful, we might take a trip over the summer.
    But I didn’t speak clearly.

    So normally my husband, Farbod will do full water change once a week. Sometimes however we spend a day or two in the city. At those times he will normally skip water changes and go an extra week. Or even if he thinks the water doesn’t need it…[Read more]

  • 4/13
    -I upped my dosage of Hydrogen Peroxide after noticing I wasn’t giving enough. 10 Tbs in the pitcher treatment
    -I started giving peas in smaller amounts, making feeding 5x a day 3 peas.
    – I added a standing fan in addition to the ceiling fan.
    -7 PM water parameters:

    Water levels:
    Nitrite 0 PPM
    Nitrate 5.0 PPM
    Ammonia 0.25…[Read more]

  • Hello,
    -We have been doing 20% water changes every night, pre-mixing the Prime and tonics.
    -I add 5Tbs of Hydrogen Peroxide once in the morning and once in the afternoon.
    -I have been using a pitcher to manually pump oxygen into the water 1x in the morning, 1x mid-day and 1x in the afternoon 10x each.
    -I have been feeding Fortune smushed peas…[Read more]

  • More questions:

    Should I begin treating this like Nitrate poisoning?
    If so, should we really be doing salt baths? The bucket is much shorter than the tank. We have been doing them every 8 hours and they seem to help.
    If we should continue, what is the best way to do the baths? I read your in house article, but where would I find a bucket or…[Read more]

  • For 2 days the Pleco sucked on the Goldfish before we were able to rehome it. Day 1 is after the Pleco has been rehomed and we have started treatment. Timeline begins in the evening so the video and picture descriptions are a bit off.

    Day 1- Injury treatment, pretty much panic on my part

    Day 2- My husband changed the water around 11PM and…[Read more]

  • Thank you Venus. I did see the attack, and the whole tail was damaged. I have a picture of the damage and a video of her floating but I am not sure how to post it. I watched her for a long time, at first she was having trouble swimming with her tail and it eventually got to the point that she couldn’t swim at all.

    Day 2- continued- My husband…[Read more]

    • Thank you Venus. I did see the attack, and the whole tail was damaged. I have a picture of the damage and a video of her floating but I am not sure how to post it. I watched her for a long time, at first she was having trouble swimming with her tail and it eventually got to the point that she couldn’t swim at all.

      Day 2- continued- My husband took over last night since he was finally off work. He did a water change without testing the parameters, getting rid of the 1 does of Melafix I had put in and gave Fortune a salt bath. He said that her tail is rough like tree bark.
      She is at the bottom on the tank, tilted on her side. When he wakes up this morning he is going to do another salt bath. I gave her a breakfast of peas.

      I will test the parameters and figure out how to post pictures and videos and reread your responses. If anything else comes to mind in with this new information I would appreciate it.

    • For 2 days the Pleco sucked on the Goldfish before we were able to rehome it. Day 1 is after the Pleco has been rehomed and we have started treatment. Timeline begins in the evening so the video and picture descriptions are a bit off.

      Day 1- Injury treatment, pretty much panic on my part

      Day 2- My husband changed the water around 11PM and gave goldfish a salt bath with aquarium water and Aquarium Salt. Did not take water parameters. 8AM another Aquarium salt bath, increased the oxygen by turning the bubble wand back on and adding 5Tbs of Hydrogen Peroxide. 4:30 another Aquarium Salt bath. Water parameters taken with a Master Test Kit and read as follows:

      Nitrate( taken 3x) 0-0.3ppm
      Nitrite (taken 2x) 0ppm
      Ammonia (1x) 0.25ppm
      PH (1x) 7.6
      High PH (1x) 7.8

      Feed peas 2x. Evening bath with Epsom Salt 7:30

      Day 3- 2 More Epsom Salt baths planned. Only feeding peas.

      Day 4- Aloe treatment planned.

    • Hello,
      -We have been doing 20% water changes every night, pre-mixing the Prime and tonics.
      -I add 5Tbs of Hydrogen Peroxide once in the morning and once in the afternoon.
      -I have been using a pitcher to manually pump oxygen into the water 1x in the morning, 1x mid-day and 1x in the afternoon 10x each.
      -I have been feeding Fortune smushed peas 1x in the morning, 1x- mid-day and 1x in the afternoon
      -I add 4 drops of goldfish vitamins to the water in the morning.

      Here is where I need help:
      I added 2 cloves of garlic to the 50 gallon tank and let them sit from morning until the nightly water change on 4/11. I did not notice a response.
      4/11 at water change we added 5 Tbs of Chlorophyll
      4/12 nightly water change we added 5Tbs of aloe vera juice.

      and then I got a chance to read your book “The Art of Goldfish Diagnosing & Rescue Proceedures…”

      *I am wondering if for tonight I should repeat the does of Chlorophyll? And again for a 3rd day?
      *Should we prepare garlic for a tank treatment?
      * My KH/GH test kit came in the mail. However, I cannot test the water parameters with it tinted green from the Chlorophyll!

    • 4/13
      -I upped my dosage of Hydrogen Peroxide after noticing I wasn’t giving enough. 10 Tbs in the pitcher treatment
      -I started giving peas in smaller amounts, making feeding 5x a day 3 peas.
      – I added a standing fan in addition to the ceiling fan.
      -7 PM water parameters:

      Water levels:
      Nitrite 0 PPM
      Nitrate 5.0 PPM
      Ammonia 0.25 PPM
      High Range PH 8.
      GH 9 drops 161.1
      KH 7 drops 125.3

      After testing:
      -We premixed the Chlorophyll treatment and
      -2 doses of Prime
      20% water change, all at once, unfortunately

      We noticed throughout the night the goldfish was getting better. But still having some floating issues. Swimming at 45 degree angle, bobbing around a bit and then bottom sitting.

      4/14
      Fortune is swimming normally at 8AM
      I gave her a breakfast of peas. We plan to continue the treatment plan until you tell us otherwise.
      My husband did agree when she is better to do small water changes on Monday, Wednesday and Friday instead of during the weekend. The weekend which might include a trip sometimes makes water changes skip a week.

      *Should he do 7%, 3x a week?
      *What is the next step in our treatment of Fortune?

      Still awaiting the pond pumps and thermometer.

    • The trip information is helpful, we might take a trip over the summer.
      But I didn’t speak clearly.

      So normally my husband, Farbod will do full water change once a week. Sometimes however we spend a day or two in the city. At those times he will normally skip water changes and go an extra week. Or even if he thinks the water doesn’t need it or he’s tired etc. So in a month with 4 weeks, probably 3 of those weeks get water changes.

      We have agreed to change this. Doing a 7% water change on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Letting the fresh water sit over night with a filter and Prime. In this way we will avoid weekends all together and there for the chance that the water change will be skipped.
      Does this sound correct?

      One pump will arrive on Saturday and one pump will arrive on Wednesday. We should leave the water filter in for a few MONTHS to allow the good bacteria to ‘move’ to the new sponges? We have purchased a screen for the tank. I hope it works with the filter.

      Fortune, our goldfish had floating and sinking issues on 4/13, including the 45 degree angle. But today 4/14, she is swimming normally. Eating while swimming and even picking along the bottom of the tank and through the plants.

      I would love to know how to continue the treatments to ensure the goldfish’s health and recovery. I will continue reading your books and going through the website. But I hope you can tell me step by step as we go along!

      I bought a 1 ounce bottle of Chlorophyll.

      Once Fortune recovers I would love to get her a male companion. However the pet stores here only sell feeder fish. These fish are the perfect size for her to eat. She has eaten 2-3 fish in her time. There is a site I can mail order a fish, I think from Hawaii. Or, maybe I can buy a fish of yours when our tank is set up right and everything is healthy? I will be making our own food according to your recipes soon as well!

      So we shouldn’t change the water until Monday? Were not going anywhere, that was a misunderstanding. What is best for the water changes?

      I have been feeding her 3x a day while sick. When she was well it was 4-5. Today I think she will eat 4x. She has quite the appetite. I am only giving her 3-5 peas.

      Also, I am having trouble finding a good pea gravel on Amazon. I am not sure what size to get and I don’t want to buy the wrong thing. Would you please recommend a product?

      Thank you for your help!!!

    • I didn’t see a particular fish, but it looks like they have a great selection of mature fish. We’ve known a few fish to get a stone stuck in their throat, but the round pet shop gravel. Natural pea gravel is irregularly shaped, and causes fewer incidents. Few fish have issues with rocks, because rocks are a part of their natural environment. The gravel looks good

    • Okay. Here’s what’s happening. The water has bad bacteria in it, and these bad bugs eat away at tissue, starting with the tail fin. For some unknown reason, fish are attracted to these infected areas. If you had another goldfish, it too would be nibbling at the tail fin. A lot of people think one fish is attacking another

      The fin will grow back if the water quality is improved

      If you’re only using Melafix, this is okay, and will not damage the good bugs

      The salt bath is okay, but tread lightly

      Perform the water change in the link, and this will get you on the road to healthier water. Heavily oxygenated water is the key. Bad bugs can’t tolerate O2, and because you have bad bugs, this tells me your oxygen levels are low

      I’m looking forward to seeing the results of the test, as this will tell me what we need to do to improve the environment

      It sounds to me like you seem to know your way around a fish tank :good:

      Create a new post to post pics or videos. Comment don’t support pics

    • I would love to see a video of your fish’s behavior. The symptoms you describe sound somewhat like nitrate issues, and or floating issues

      It’s true Pleco’s shouldn’t be kept with goldfish, but unless you see red areas or sores on the body, no harm done. Their nibbles are toxic, and create sores that lead to bacteria infection, that eventually kills the fish. It doesn’t always happen, but better to be safe than sorry. Do you see external sores on your fish? Did you see the attack?

      Goldfish sleep at night, so you won’t see them eating or swimming about when the lights go out. Pleco fish are the opposite. This makes goldfish an easy targot

      Feeding sinking pellets is okay, but soak them in tank water first. If a fish eats dry pellets, they will swell in the tract, impacting it. This leads to floating issues. The swim bladder organ (organ that gives fish ability to sink or rise) is connected to the tract. The swim bladder uses Co2 (gas created from waste in the tract)

      If the tract slows or becomes blocked, gas becomes trapped in the bladder, causing the fish to float. The more severe the issue, the higher the fish floats. In most cases the fish rolls, and turns upside down, and as the condition worsens, it eventually ends up at the surface. Does this sound like what’s happening to your fish?

      I hear it time and time again; not wanting to do a water change for fear of stressing the fish, but there is nothing more stressful than poor water quality. As for testing; there’s nothing more important than knowing your water parameters. Use your master test kit, and report the results of all the parameters here, so we can learn more about the water your fish is swimming in.

      Follow the link below, and perform the water change. Follow the instructions carefully. If you believe your fish is floating as described above, don’t lower water temps. This water change will lower nitrates safely, and improve the oxygen levels in the water

      911 Water Change

      Let’s get this fish in shape, along with your water, and then get it a friend to liven it up

      As for the meds, what exactly are you using? Pet shops meds will destroy bad bugs in the tank, but they also destroy the good kind, breaking the cycle. Do you understand the nitrogen cycle and how it works? Test for ammonia and nitrite to make sure the fish isn’t being poisoned by one or both toxins. Your freshwater kit may not have an ammonia tester. If not, maybe you could pick one up

      Use the Prime with your water change; in fact, double the dosage just in case

    • I was unable to post a video at this time, but I was able to view one. I’ll work on that later

      Were you able to get test results?

      If you notice the red streaks in the tail fin in the first photo? These are broken blood vessels caused by nitrite poisoning. Nitrite is the second toxin to form in the cycle. A cycled tank has only nitrates. In most cases, the symptoms shows up long after the nitrite has converted. Test for this toxin. Let’s see if nitrites are still present. With some luck the toxin will test at zero

      If oxygen levels are low, this makes for a difficult and slow recovery. Nitrite robs the blood of oxygen, and a low pH value combined with nitrite poisoning is a deadly combo

      In the video I managed to watch, the fish was floating and rolling a bit. It’s possible the fish has a floating issue caused by dry pellets, but I can’t be sure. If we can rule out nitrate issues it would be helpful. Nitrates cause loss of appetite, and bottom sitting. Fish poisoned by nitrates press to the bottom in order to relieve pressure caused by the toxin. Increased depth combined with water rich in oxygen is the key

      In the final throws of nitrate poisoning, the fish begins to curl to the side, and then loses the ability to stay put on the bottom. You may see it swim in circles. I don’t think this is what your fish is doing though

      Let’s see some readings so we’ll know a little more

      I don’t see any signs of infection caused by the Pleco, but I could only view one video. The sand should be replaced with natural pea gravel. In their natural habitat, there is no sand, and being bottom dwellers, goldfish develop numerous issues when they dig in the sand for food. It also harbors bad bacteria

      Do you use a gravel vacuum to clean the sand? Does it stir up a cloud?

      Did you perform the 911 water change?

    • Forgot to say………….That’s great news; good work :yahoo:

    • Very good readings. It look like the cycle is in tact, but we’ll know for sure by the end of the weekend. It would be nice to see the ammonia levels at zero, but beggars can’t be choosy. I’m delighted to see nitrites at zero

      Your GH and KH readings are healthy. You’re in good shape.

      Continue with the H202 and the pitcher method also, until the pumps arrive. Then you can relax, and let them do the work for you. Don’t remove your old filter after setting up the pumps. Within a few months, the friendly bug colony will move to the pumps, and you can remove the old filter. Maybe you’ll use it in your freshwater bucket

      If the cycle is stable by the end of the weekend, you can go on a trip with no worries if you have someone to feed

      I would say the fish is recovering from the nitrite and nitrate issues, and it will also recover from the floating issue. Continue feeding only peas, and if in a few weeks its not swimming normally, we’ll consider a treatment. A lot of these issues clear up on their own if the diet improves

      What size jug of chlorophyll did you get? Maybe when you return from your trip you can start treatment again. It will takes months for the fish’s body to repair itself, and then only under the best circumstances

      Your fish will never be able to tolerate nitrates higher than 20 ppm, and 10 ppm is preferred. This could be an issue if you’re going to be gone for a week. Here’s what I would do; cut meals in half until you get home, and then very gradually (taking a few weeks) build the meal sizes back up to normal

      You might consider getting your fish a friend. It would definitely perk it up

      Instead of daily water changes, I might hold off for a few days, and let’s see how high nitrates will climb over the next few days. This will tell us what we’re going to be dealing with for the week you’re gone

      How many meals do you feed a day? I hadn’t asked previously. Goldfish don’t have stomachs, and most people have the idea they can be fed only once or twice a day. This in itself causes gorging, impacting a tract. Cut your the amount of food you feed daily into fours, and spread the four meals out throughout the day as much as possible

      You mentioned floating at a 45 degree angle? Nose up or down?

    • Yes, let’s do one more dose of chlorophyll

      From the photos, which I’ll post a few on to your original post, I see the curled position we discussed over the phone. Do you see the slight bend?

      Perform the pitcher method of eliminating Co2 two to three times daily, and if possible, set up a fan so it skims the surface

      Continue with 20% (by exchanging 5% every half hour or so) daily water changes, using a double dose of Prime as a precautionary measure

      Before you double dose, test, and take a photo at the time the test matures, send it to me. I may be able to read the parameter, having used a lot of green juice in my time. If not, we’ll just assume whether the cycle is broken or not, it hasn’t had enough time to climb to levels that a double dose won’t convert

      I’m reasonably certain your KH is at 90 to 100 ppm due to the readings of the freshwater you added to the tank a few days ago; maybe a little higher. It’s the oxygen levels dragging pH down

      If possible, go to your nearest lawn and garden center, and pick up a pond pump or two. You need 500 to 700 GPH total, but two half the size would be best

      My thought is, the nitrates were high, but not at deadly levels when a large water change was performed, causing nitrate shock, which is not as serious as nitrate poisoning. Your fish could pull through if you keep doing what you’re doing. The fact is, that the fish hasn’t died yet tell me it’s putting up a fight.

      Continue feeding peas as normal; same amount as usual. Is the fish still trying to eat or is the appetite lost?

    • Also wanted to add; I’m delighted to hear you ordered the KH and GH test kit. These two parameters are all important, and the most overlooked in the industry

      Just feed peas for the time being. Peas are really nutritious, and contain all of the nutrients your fish needs. Once we see there’s no floating issues, you can begin adding soaked pellets

      Yes, we’ve had members use that very sand, and results were the same as with any sand. In the end, they all switched to gravel. If not for one reason, then for another. In their natural environment, there is no sand, but only gravel. There’s nothing goldfish love more than pecking through gravel for a leftover morsel, and keeping our fish contented is just as important as keeping them healthy

      For now, we shouldn’t worry about it. The sand isn’t causing the issues your fish is experiencing. It was just an observation

      As for the fish jumping from the tank; the gap between the top of your tank and the surface of your water should be the same as your longest fish, and you won’t have to worry. Goldfish may accidentally leap from the tank during spawning activities. Parasites, which make them really uncomfortable have also been known to get fish jumping

      Some of our members use screens to prevent their cats from going fishing though. lol

      You can’t attach photos to comments, so create another blog post if you want to add more pics; three is the limit

      See my post below

    • Your husband has good intentions, but performing large water changes and rinsing filters is a big no no. Beneficial bacteria; the friendly bugs that create the nitrogen cycle build their colonies in our filters and pumps. They must have complete darkness to reproduce, and they also require heavily oxygenated water. Filters and pumps offer both

      Goldfish create waste. From waste, ammonia is produced. Ammonia attracts friendly bugs; it’s their food source. They feed on the toxin converting it to nitrite. Nitrite attracts another type of friendly bug. They feed on the nitrite converting it to nitrate. Both nitrite and nitrates are actually friendly bug pooh; weird huh?

      As ammonia is being created, it’s being processed, and even though you won’t see ammonia readings in a cycled tank, it’s there. Exchanging too much water at one time increases the risk of a spike in the cycle, but rinsing the filter pretty much guarantees it. This is what is happening in your fish house

      If the filter is getting bogged down or slowing; dunk it in a bucket of tank water; swish it around. Top loading filters are notorious for getting clogged, and they aren’t as supportive to friendly bug colonies as pond pumps. I recommend investing in two pond pumps. One for each side of the tank. There’s more than one reason to get a pond pump. The action they produce eliminates Co2 (carbon dioxide created from waste) which helps oxygenate water

      Read the 10 easy steps to goldfish keeping, and when you’re ready, read the full version. You’ll learn how to perform a proper water change, and you’ll also learn about pond pumps. No fish house is complete without a pond pump. Pond pumps encourage a stronger cycle because they sit on the floor of your tank where waste settles. Waste, inadvertently being the food source for friendly bugs

      Goldfish Care

      We place sponges over the intakes of our pond pumps which are rinsed (in tank water) weekly. This keeps fish water crystal clear and also keeps the pumps running smooth. Pond pumps easy to maintain

      For now, we need to keep a close watch on the cycle by testing as you know, but keeping up with daily water changes that include water treatment is really important. This way, your fish is protected if ammonia or nitrite readings climb

      In the future, if you’re going to create a long post, use a word program, and then cut and paste it into the text box. You could get logged out, a power outage could occur, or internet could get a hiccup. It’s really frustrating to lose a long post. How well I know. lol

      I haven’t experienced the double post effect as of yet. In the future, instead of deleting the post, just leave it alone, and I’ll take care of it. I checked out the checkout page, and it was frozen. It seems Amazon pay is experiencing some issues, but it should be resolved by the end of the day. I’ve deleted their payment method from the checkout page, and it’s now functioning, however, EverButton is the only payment option. It’s secure if you want to complete your purchase

      I’m sorry for the inconvenience

    • Good to see these parameters

      Your cycle is having some issues. How much water did your husband exchange? In a cycled tank, you should have a healthy reading for nitrates; 20 ppm or so. It’s possible a large or several water changes have been performed to reduce levels. This in itself will upset a cycle

      The ammonia reading could be caused by chloramines in your tap. In order to know for sure, you would have to contact your water department. Chloramines are chlorine and ammonia combined. A reading for ammonia of .25 is typical when present. This disinfectant is used in larger cities when water travels a longer distance

      Let’s keep a close watch on ammonia and nitrite; test daily and let me know if the levels climb. If the cycle is in tact we’ll see nitrates rise gradually. I realize you have a large tank and only one fish, but you should still have a reading of 10 ppm or more with regular water changes

      There’s no doubt your fish was recently poisoned by nitrite. Symptoms do not lie. It’s possible nitrite levels were reduced with the water changes or the spike has settled down. The red streaks in the tail fin is the damage the nitrites left behind. In order to repair, the oxygen levels must be increased

      Your pH reading; 7.6 to 7. 8 is okay, but we need to dig a little deeper. Do you have a KH tester? We need to see this parameter

      KH and O2 combined make up pH. In some areas where KH is high, this parameter can make up for the biggest part of pH, meaning oxygen levels are low. In order to find out, we test KH first. If it’s healthy (120 to 140 ppm preferred) then we test pH. If pH isn’t at the high end of the comfort zone; 8. to 8.4 ppm, we know oxygen levels are low

      If KH is at high end of the zone; so should be pH

      Good thinking, H202. Use twice a day until we know KH results

      Oxygen is the cure for nitrite poisoning

      It’s possible some damage has occurred from the Pleco nibbles, but oxygen is the cure for this also. Bad bacteria can’t tolerate oxygen

      Feed only peas for the time being, and watch to see if the fish is attracted to the food, and able to get to it. The opposite of a floating issue is a sinking issue. This is when the tract is empty, and there’s no Co2 available for swim bladder function. If you see the fish isn’t getting food, release the peas in front of it, and if that doesn’t work, we’ll discuss force feeding

      Any further signs of floating?

      Let’s get back to the cycle. Perform 20% daily water changes using a single dose of Prime. Test ammonia and nitrite daily, and if there’s any change report back. The cycle has either just begun to spike or is just now settling down. The only thing worse than nitrite poisoning is a repeat of the incident

      Goldfish greatly benefit from salt bathes after being poisoned by nitrites. Chloride in salt improves gill function, increasing the oxygen in the blood stream. I’m concerned that nitrates may also be an issue. These toxins are related, both being created by living organisms. Both thicken the blood due to loss of oxygen. When affected by nitrates, fish will press to the bottom, however, they don’t do this with nitrites

      Yes, it happens, fish being poisoned by both toxins, and it’s doubly dangerous

      If you’re interested in a remedy, I would recommend the chlorophyll and the garlic as well. If you like, I could blend them together for the same cost, or you could make your own

    • See my post below

      What is the water temperature?

      Continue with the H202 as well as the chlorophyll

    • Yes to everything. You’ve got it

      Go to a local lawn and garden store for pea gravel

      It’s tough, finding a mature fish, and then it’s even tougher to find a male. Most people can’t determine the sex of a fish. I can only do it by watching to see who chases during spawning. Males do the chasing. Your fish looks to be a common, so it would be helpful if you could find a common male. Reason being, fancy male fish might have problems keeping up with her. I don’t have fish for sell right now, and the only common I have is female

      That being said, many a female fish have found relief from the jets of a pond pump. Once she gets used to the action, you might see your fish hovering over the jet stream. The action provides the necessary pressure to release eggs. In the meantime, you might place an ad on Craigslist, looking for mature pond fish

      Shubunkins and comets can keep up with a common fish. There’s a pet shop down the street that’s selling 3″ shubunkins. I know that doesn’t help you, but it should encourage you to keep looking locally. Don’t be tempted to buy a Koi. They grow too big too fast

      Email me your location, and if we get someone from your area wanting to rehome their fish I’ll let you know. Most of these fish are pond fish, ranging from 6 to 10″

      You might find the right fish online. Look for a shu. They’re hardy and beautiful too

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