Moving a Nitrate sensitive fish

Moving a Nitrate sensitive fish


After having successfully treated my sick fish with you I wanted to ask your advice for moving.
I have observed the following sensitivities and requirements for my fish.

1- Roughly 5% of the tank water evaporates every 1-2 days, If I let it evaporate anymore, the fish gets Nitrate shock.
2- If I change more than 5% of the tank water the fish gets Nitrate shock.
3- If I change the water more that 1x a week the fish gets Nitrate shock.
4- My Nitrate water parameters never get above 5ppm in a week time. At this point, I have to do a water change because the GH levels rise to 14-15 drops.

So my water parameters weekly test roughly:
Nitrate 5.0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Ammonia 0.25
High PH 8.4
KH 11 drops
GH 12 drops

My water temperature is consistently 66-69 degrees.
We now have algae on the walls of the tank. And I am the only one who touches the fish tank.

We are moving 5 minutes away into a new house, by the end of June.

What is the best way to handle the move for this very sensitive fish?

By | 2019-04-01T13:37:11-05:00 June 18th, 2017|Categories: Goldfish Koi Health Issues, Goldfish Koi Maintenance|

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  1. Venus July 7, 2017 at 2:29 pm

    She really is super sensitive, but when we say this, what we mean is; the fish hasn’t fully recovered. She needs a few treatments of mean green, but more important, check the new tap water parameters. You may have to buffer KH and GH

    Test for nitrates in tap too; it happens

    Goal for KH is 120 to 140 ppm, and remember to keep the water deep as possible and cold

  2. dozierjennifer July 7, 2017 at 1:41 pm


    Our fish was successfully moved on 6/30. We bought large trashcans with lids and saved 40% of the water. We treated the tank alternating between treatments up to the move. Aloe, Mean Green, Oop Therapy and Health Tonic. When taking the fish out we immediately put her into a bucket of tank water treated with Hydrogen Periodide and Epsom Salt for about 5-7 minutes while we got her moving container, ( a styrofoam ice chest with a garbage bag in it) ready with the water temperature at 45%. We achieved this using temperature using ice. Once Fortune was in the ice chest we bathed her tank mate, Fate in the treatment water and put him into the ice chest as well. We then finished taking down the tank and with an air-conditioned truck moved her to our new house, where we set up the tank as quickly as possible. We added the old water and 10% new water with some salt and hydrogen peroxide and set up the air pumps. We then added the fish back to their home. Success. I noticed in the next couple of days Fortune, however, had developed impacted eggs.

    During the move, because it was summer and the temperature had risen a few degrees for a month or so Fortune had developed eggs. After the move and the decrease in temperature, she began to show signs of impacted eggs. She was swimming head down at a 45-degree angle. She however still had her appetite. After some emailed advice we held Fortune’s vent over the water pump’s pressure. This immediately seemed to relieve the problem. We followed this with increasing the temperature to 68-70 degrees. I also have started a week’s treatment of Melafix, because of the risk of infection as well as a small abrasion I noticed on her fin caused by the move.

    She is no longer at a 45-degree angle and seems to have responded well. But once again she is in a curled bent position. I believe this time it was brought on by me adding water in a little bit too fast. I will have to follow your advice on the pitcherful method. She seems to be doing as well as possible. A sensitive but tough fish!

  3. Venus June 18, 2017 at 1:14 pm

    Okay, we’re not selling mean green two for one, but if you decide to purchase, I’ll slip a third bottle in

  4. Venus June 18, 2017 at 12:53 pm

    Hi Jennifer, that is one sensitive fish, meaning it hasn’t fully recovered. Your parameters look fantastic, and believe it or not, that in itself is helpful

    Consider changing the way you change water; instead of removing 5% and then replacing, like you would with normal fish; replace one pitcher at a time. Scoop a pitcherful out of the tank; pour in a bucket, replace with freshwater. This means exchanging twice as much water to reduce nitrates, but it looks like they’re under control

    We’ve got a buy two get one free on remedies; suggest mean green. I’ve switched from wheat grass chlorophyll to dandelion. Dandelion is a blood cleanser on top of numerous benefits

    I think the best way to move this guy is to get him really cold; like 45 degrees. A small ice chest to keep the water cold should do the trick. This way the blood flow will be very limited, so it won’t feel the increased pressure.

    Do the mean green treatment before the move, but save a jug for after you get him moved. If he warms up to the green water, it might make the difference. I’ll slip some white tea into one marked bottle as the wake up treatment.

    Test you new tap, even though a nearby move shouldn’t make much of a difference

    As to the evaporation; yes, I expect nitrates are going to build up because they don’t evaporate. Ever heard of R.O. water? They collect steam from heated water. The steam water is free of everything, with minerals and toxins left behind. I just recently wrote this article on the topic of evaporation. KH levels build up and up, and before you know the fish are poisoned. Just recently had a close call. Thought of you, but realized you were testing regularly. People like me with average levels think they’re safe.

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